Everest Base Camp (part 2): Day to Day Trekking Guide
Hi and welcome to Part 2 of my Guide to Everest Base Camp!
In my guide I’m going to share with you my full and personal account of day to day life trekking to Everest Base Camp, and Gokyo Lakes, with extensive extracts from my diary.
If you haven’t done so already, you may wish to check out my previous blog: The Ultimate Guide to Everest Base Camp (Part 1) first.
You can also check out my Gallery for loads more photos of my Everest Base Camp adventure! Plus I’ve got a few videos in my YouTube channel EBC Playlist!
A Day-To-Day Trekking Guide
CONTENTS
Introduction
My Diary
Day 3: Kathmandu to Lukla? - Things don’t always go to plan!
Day 6: Acclimatisation Day - and trek to the Everest View Hotel
Day 10: The Memorial to the Fallen, and trek to Lobuche (5,030m)
Gokyo Lakes (Extension)
My Diary
Everest Base Camp Trek: Summary
Don’t just think about about Everest Base Camp - Do it!
Introduction
When I was younger, a lot younger I, like so many wide-eyed kids with big dreams, imagined myself standing on the roof of the world. Always the adventurer and explorer, with a defiant attitude of “I can do anything! I’m invincible!” Yeah, right kiddo!
Yep, that was me. Always the dreamer. But skipping forward many years, I found myself like so many people of a certain age embarking on their mid-life journey, asking myself some typical life questions like; “what have I accomplished in my life?” (no offence to my amazing wife, Marissa, and our 4 kids), and “What can I do to really push myself outside my comfort zone”? Now that was THE question!
That set the ball rolling to a world of possibilities. I began with signing up to some awesome Action Challenge events in the UK, starting with 50km ultra events, before moving up to some 100km challenges. I was totally hooked, and I was thirsty for more!
Fast forward to March 2019 and I found myself in a semi-lit, upstairs room in a London pub on the Embankment with 20 or so other wide-eyed adventurers, listening intently to a presentation about trekking to Everest Base Camp.
EVEREST BASE CAMP
For the sceptics out there, trekking to Everest Base Camp (EBC) is by no means a stroll in the park. EBC doesn’t sit at sea level. It’s not nestled down in some lush green valley. No, EBC rests high up in the Himalayas, at an impressive 17,598 feet (5,364 metres) altitude, precariously perched on the Khumbu Glacier!
To reach Everest Base Camp takes approximately 8 strenuous days of hard trekking to get there, and 3-4 days back, covering over 100kms distance on extremely arduous terrain, all the while dealing with the demands of high altitude and increasing fatigue!
I had found my adventure of a lifetime. I signed up immediately!!
A Day-To-Day Trekking Guide
My Diary - Day 1 to Day 11
Day 1 to Day 2: Flight from UK to Kathmandu, Nepal.
After arriving in Kathmandu, Nepal, it’s a short transfer to hotel. We had the afternoon to explore a little bit of Kathmandu, purchase wifi-cards, and local data cards, and exchange some money into Nepalese Rupees. As travelling has taken its toll, and with an early start tomorrow morning, to head off to the Himalayas via the infamous short, but exhilarating flight to Lukla, it’s time to get back to the hotel and make some last minute packing adjustments for our trek to Everest Base Camp.
Then there’s a briefing for the whole group, with our expedition leaders, and Sherpa guides who we meet for the first time!
Day 3: Kathmandu to Lukla? - Things don’t always go to plan!
I’d heard that sometimes you can be waiting around at Kathmandu airport for clear skies, as if it’s not safe to fly into Lukla, then flights literally stop. Well, it was pouring with rain when we arrived back at Kathmandu airport around 6am. It’s a waiting game, and that’s exactly what we did - play games whilst sitting for hours on the departure lounge floor.
After hours of waiting and frustration, with no flights available for today, the decision was made to try again tomorrow. No problem, we’d make back the time, and we’d get the chance to explore Kathmandu in the afternoon.
We were treated to a visit to Boudhanath Temple, in the heart of Kathmandu. So as we walked around the inner walls of Boudhanath, turning prayer wheels, taking In the sweet smells of incense, watching the throngs of people of all cultures and backgrounds, many who had made a pilgrimage to this site, it was a lot to take In. A totally religious, uplifting and calming experience. After a disappointing start to today, It was exactly what was needed!
The generosity and warmth of the Nepalese people is something I’ll never forget
Day 4: Helicopters and the Himalayas!
After yet more rain and low cloud, and still with no flights to Lukla, we had no option but to charter helicopters to take us to the Himalayas. 5 people in each helicopter, we all set off at various times. This was the REAL START of my Himalayan adventure!
Our flight began well, albeit with light rain, which cleared as we made our way towards the mountains. As we were approaching Lukla, the clouds drew a curtain across the mountains, and we had to divert and find somewhere to land urgently. This pattern of taking off and urgently landing on a small strip of mountainside continued for a few hours! At one stage our pilot told us might even have to sleep in the helicopter for the night!
On our fourth attempt, we disembarked at a small village lower down, called Kharik Hola. We were told we’d stay there the night. So the 5 of us took the opportunity to explore. What a magnificent sight we were treated to…a golden staircase lined with prayer wheels all the way up towards a school at the top. It was stunning!
We hadn’t been there long, when our pilot came running across to us and shouted “Let’s go!”. There was a window of sky available for us to try and get to Lukla after all. So for the fifth time we took off once more. But, once again the fates were against us. We eventually landed in Surke. By now the light was fading and so we needed somewhere to sleep for the night.
We had also lost all communication with the rest of our party. We had no idea where they were at this point.
Our day wasn’t quite over still. There weren’t any rooms in Surke, so the five of us all got ourselves ready to begin our first trek, at night, in the pouring rain, up the mountainside! Torches on, we left Surke, and began our first experience of hiking in the Himalayas. For 2 1/2 hours we trekked in the darkness, until we finally made it to our Tea House for the night, in Chourikharka.
I managed to make contact with our expedition leader, to let them know we were safe, and we would hopefully be reunited with our group at some point tomorrow.
It was an incredible start to our Everest Base Camp adventure! Sure we could have got the usual flight to Lukla like most people, but what the five of us experienced, was something truly memorable.
Day 5: Trek to Namche Bazaar
After breakfast, we left Chourikhaka to begin our longer than planned trek to Namche Bazaar, where we would hopefully all be reunited with our friends. We had in the region of 23-25km of trekking ahead of us!
This was more like it. It was a hot, sunny day, and we got our first taste of what our daily routine would be from now on. We passed several villages along the way, and as usual were greeted with beaming smiles and cries of Namaste as we passed.
The going was hard, with many steps up and down. It was endless. But the sheer beauty and majesty of the Himalayan forests, streams, and villages was enough to lighten our hearts and give us the momentum to keep going.
Along the paths, as well as people going to a fro, you pass Nepalese donkeys, and of course Yaks! My word they are awesome creatures! The call of the bells around their necks gives you warning to move aside when they pass, which you definitely need to, as they are huge!
Our guide, Sherpa Jangbu, who would be our lead guide throughout our Everest Base Camp trek, took us for a short stop to his home. We met his wife and children, and were offered refreshments. It was a lovely experience of Sherpa life, and one I’ll never forget.
We carried on, as there was still a long way to go to reach Namche Bazaar. We stopped for lunch in Phakding. This is usually a village where a lot of EBC trekkers come to stay. We found out that some of our group had indeed stayed there last night. Lucky them. They were well ahead of us.
After more trekking in the afternoon, through lush forests, countless steep staircases, and suspension bridges, finally you reach the official entrance to Sagamartha (Everest) National Park. This is where you show your hiking permits as well. It’s completely spellbinding as you walk through the gates, as it’s like stepping into another world, almost like a scene from Avatar! It’s beautiful. Tall forests spread out in front of you, and it’s a sea of green everywhere. The staircases bring you back to earth a bit, and it’s a really hard slog as you go up and down.
Finally you are on lower ground as you walk alongside the Dudh Khosi river (aka milk river, due to it’s white hues). Then high above a sight that’s synonymous with Everest Base Camp folklore, the Hilary Suspension Bridge.
It’s a climb up some stairs to reach the infamous suspension bridge, but I couldn’t wait to cross it. It’s an incredible experience, and you just want to savour these moments, because sometimes it all seems a bit surreal!
After crossing the bridge, the air was noticeably cooler. But we still had some hard and steep climbs to do. We’d been hiking for around 8-9 hours today, and the light was beginning to darken, when we rounded a corner and Namche Bazaar (3,440m) came into view! Shrouded in low hanging mist, It still looked incredible.
After climbing the stairs up past the bazaars, shops and cafes, we reach our hotel (yes, a hotel - with hot showers!), where we are warmly greeted by all our group. We were treated like heroes after our fun over the past 24 hours! It felt great to all be together once more.
It also felt great knowing that we’d be here for 2 days.
Day 6: Acclimatisation Day - and trek to the Everest View Hotel
Elevated view of Namche Bazaar, taken on our acclimatisation walk
We were now a group of 24, plus our expedition leaders, medics, Sherpa guides, and porters, as we set off early for our acclimatisation walk, with the aim of gaining 440m altitude via the Everest View Hotel (3,880m) before coming back down again.
It’s a long, steep climb up many stairs to get to the far end of Namche Bazaar, and out into the mountainside paths. Even at this relatively low altitude, by comparison to how much higher we’d be trekking to, how you could already feel the effects. Breathing became laboured, and when it’s not something you’re used to, it does play on your mind, as to how you’ll cope when you reach higher plains.
We made a stop at an Environmental project called Sagamartha Next, which was created in response to the high level of waste people leave behind. Plastic, glass, tin and other litter is collected, taken to the project. Some is recycled, or upcycled into pieces of art. It’s quite impressive, and something I’d highly recommend visiting when you get the chance on your Everest Base Camp journey.
So, a pattern was emerging with the weather. All too familiar clouds were obscuring the large peaks we’d been excited to see. Plus with the cloud, the temperature dropped. There wouldn’t be a view today of Mount Everest. Disappointment, but one or two peaks did briefly show themselves.
So, we made our way back to Namche Bazaar, and had the rest of the day to ourselves. Time to explore, buy some souvenirs, stock up on supplies, before chilling in one of the many coffee shops. The promise of hot chocolate and some great cake awaited!
We bought 6 boxes of Snickers!! Enough to last?
Day 7: Trek to Deboche (3,875m)
Time to leave the comforts of our hotel in Namche Bazaar (we would be returning there on our way back), and begin the slow and steady climb up and out of the capital of Sherpa life.
It’s a glorious day, and we’re all in t-shirts and shorts. An hour later we stop briefly at a large memorial Stupa, which commemorates the 50th Anniversary 1953-2003 of the first Everest summit in honour of Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest.
Continuing along the easy going track for another 30 minutes, we got our FIRST EVEREST SIGHTING! Ok, it literally was just peeking out of the clouds, but it’s a sight that blows you away! Right next to it, another monster, Lhotse (the 4th highest peak in the world).
Mt Everest on the left, with Lhotse on the right
The track then leads down a valley towards a river. Shortly before the bottom of the valley we stopped for a rest break. Sitting in the sun, we had our first casualty - our medic, Kanch (who I got really close to on our trip), collapsed, passing out stone cold! Brought on my de-hydration, and a previous stomach issue. Thankfully only just his pride was dented, and he was able to carry on!
The afternoon was spent regaining the altitude we’d lost on our way down. Although tiring, it was a stunning walk, through rhododendron forests! The higher we climbed however, the cooler it became and the clouds once again rolled in.
Eventually late in the afternoon we made it to Tengboche Monastery, which is synonymous with the Everest Base Camp trek. We weren’t permitted to enter the Monastery itself on the day, but it’s still a significant moment on your EBC trek.
From Tengboche it was only a further 45 minutes of hiking until we reached our Tea House for the night in the village of Deboche. This was a real shock in terms of the creature comforts we had got used to in Namche Bazaar. The rooms were very cold, and there was no hot water. However, the common room although small, was nice and toasty. We were all feeling it in the evening. Some of the group had started to develop hacking coughs, and some were sick. The effects of higher altitude were starting to show! Thankfully, although really tired, and with a mild headache, I felt fine overall.
Day 8: Ama Dablam and Dingboche (4,410m)
We were split into our two respective EBC Gokyo, and EBC Classic groups today, as we left Deboche.
Lucky for our group, as our lead Sherpa, Chhiring had arranged a surprise for us! 30 minutes into our walk we arrived at a Tibetan Nunnery, where we were able to step inside and learn all about its history and significance. It was both fascinating and a privilege to be able to experience this traditional, religious dwelling.
We stopped for 30 minutes or so, and then left, heading again through stunning forests, until we reached a clearing and another wire suspension bridge. Looking to our right, a magnificent sight - Ama Dablam! Although not one of the highest peaks at 6,812m, it captures the hearts of many, with it’s easily recognisable peak. It’s name translates to “Mother’s necklace”, and is known as the ‘mountaineers mountain’ due to its technical nature and difficult terrain.
It was one of the special moments of the EBC trip, and Ama Dablam remained in view on many parts of the route.
After lunch, we were off again for a further 400m of ascent needed. Being out of the protection of the forests, and with clouds rolling in, the temperature dropped quite significantly. A weather pattern that would remain now for the next few days at least.
We eventually arrived in Dingboche, with our Tea House situated at the furthest end of the village. This would give us an advantage for our acclimatisation walk tomorrow. I was delighted to discover they had a hot shower available, at a very reasonable cost. OMG it felt great!
I was exhausted in the evening. So after dinner I went back to my room to try and get some sleep. I hadn’t been able to get much sleep at all since we’d began our trek to Everest Base Camp. My lips had also broken through the cold, and were bleeding. Feeling a little sorry for myself, I climbed into my sleeping bag and drifted.
Day 9: Acclimatisation day (to 4,750m)
I woke up feeling great! The sun was out with clear blue skies, and it felt good knowing we’d be able to take a little rest this afternoon after this morning’s acclimatisation walk.
We headed out early as usual, walking through the Chukhung Valley. The vista was incredible, with Ama Dablam now close up from the opposite side we’d seen previously, and Island Peak and Nuptse straight ahead through the valley.
Despite the beautiful morning, it was noticeable cooler as we headed into higher altitude, and my breathing became more laboured as a result.
We came to a memorial setting with a Stupa in the middle, marking the tragic loss of some Polish climbers who’d lost their lives on Lhotse South face in 2019.
It took only 3 hours to reach our destination, the small village of Chukhung, where we stopped at a Tea House for a hot drink and a light snack.
It only took a fraction of the time to get back to Dingboche, where we had lunch. The afternoon was clear for us to do what we liked. A group of us ventured back down Dingboche to get some more supplies - I needed some more Paracetamol, and toilet paper! Then we aimed for one of the coffee shops, where we spent the rest of the day, having hot chocolate and cake, as is the thing to do when it’s on offer! Having strong Wifi signal there it was also an opportunity to make some calls back home.
That evening back in our Tea House, one of our group Huw, ran a quiz night for us all. It was such a fun night, as we all were in good spirits, and getting excited now for the next couple of days!
Day 10: The Memorial to the Fallen, and trek to Lobuche (5,030m)
We left Dingboche early, and had a steep climb almost straight away. The change in landscape was noticeable, much more barren in appearance. From the top of the climb looking back down into Dingboche for the last time, we turned and continued on our trail.
The grassy plains turned to stone as we trekked over the next couple of hours towards our lunch stop in Thukla (4,620m). Shortly before arriving there we had to cross a rather unstable looking short bridge over icy waters underneath.
It was the afternoon’s trek I was thinking about. We were heading to the Memorial for the Fallen, otherwise known as the ‘Climbers Graveyard’. I had read about it and seen some videos of the area. It’s well documented for having some memorials to some well known climbers such as Rob Hall and Scott Fischer for instance, who sadly were 2 of many who perished in the Everest tragedy of 1996.
Whether it was the surrealness of actually standing there, or the effects of the altitude, I burst into tears as I tried to take it all in. It simply takes your breath away either way.
We left the Climbers Graveyard, and continued now on stony tracks, with hardly any green now to be seen. By mid-afternoon we reached Lobuche, and for the first time reaching an altitude of 5,000m.
Lobuche is small and quiet, with very basic accommodation and not much else.
In the evening, we huddled all together for our briefing for tomorrow. The BIG DAY! Heading for Everest Base Camp! Whoop!
Day 11: Reaching Everest Base Camp (5,364m)
This is it! The big day had arrived, and you could feel the buzz of excitement! Still, there was a very long day ahead, perhaps 10-12 hours!
A few of the group were clearly struggling by now, so our Sherpa guides gave them extra attention as we left Lobuche at a much earlier time of 6.30am.
It was an absolute stunner of a day, which made our going much more enjoyable (at the start anyway!). The views were incredible the further we went on. The mood was so good in fact that when we stopped briefly for a rest, some music played from Karen’s phone, and some of the group even broke out some dance moves, including our ever happy lead Sherpa Chhirring.
The next 90 minutes or so was a lot tougher however, with some steep, or so it seemed, climbs. But the reward was immense. We were now heading on the Lobuche Pass. The scenery appearing almost luna like. It was glorious!
We eventually arrive at our lunch stop, at the notorious Gorak Shep (5,190m). I say notorious, not for any glamour. Quite the opposite in fact! It’s pretty grim to be frank. It’s the last stopping place before Everest Base Camp, and where we would be staying the night on our return.
It also sits at the foot of Kala Patthar. At 5,664m this would be the highest point of our EBC trek early tomorrow morning (weather permitting).
To Everest Base Camp - the final push!
The next couple of hours or so are the toughest so far. It’s hard to breathe, and the terrain hampers us with Incessant boulders which we have to navigate through. It’s a real slog. But all the time you’re looking around you, and you’re in the presence of giant white mountain walls and peaks, with the Khumbu Glacier running below. It’s totally surreal, albeit exhausting!
From a high point eventually you see Everest Base Camp in the distance for the first time. Hold on….it’s below you! I wasn’t expecting that! There’s a field of boulders to navigate first, as we carefully make our way down.
Pause….
On 3rd October 2022, 2.25pm local time we made it to Everest Base Camp!
I walk slowly across the loose rocks and stones and make my way towards the iconic large rock, marked with Everest Base Camp, 5,364m painted on its side.
At that point I burst into tears! As does many of our group to be fair (to me). It’s an overwhelming experience that’s hard to put into words. It’s everything you’ve ever dreamed of, and you’re standing there, right there. The emotions come flooding out. You can check me out in floods of tears on my YouTube EBC Playlist. I’m not ashamed.
After all the photos and high fives, I made my way to the right of the rock, and took out a small packet I’d been carrying the whole of my EBC journey. Inside were 4 small painted stones with the names of 4 friends who would be coming to EBC just a few weeks after me. I placed them carefully underneath a heavy stone, and took a photo, so I could let them know where to find them hopefully when they reached EBC themselves.
And just like that, It’s time to leave Everest Base Camp. It’s incredibly hard to pull yourself away from the one place you’d been dreaming about for so long, but there’s still another 3 hours of trekking to do, to make it back to Gorak Shep.
But eventually we make it back to our Tea House late afternoon, totally physically and emotionally exhausted, but exhilarated none the less. 10-12 hours of trekking with only 50% of your body’s needed oxygen level to contend with. But a day I’ll never forget.
Gokyo Lakes (Extension)
My Diary - Day 12 to Day 19
Day 12: Farewell to friends, and the Cho La Pass
Kala Patthar: This (optional) trek typically takes place in the early hours of the morning, with the aim of reaching the peak before sunrise. This then gives you the ‘money shot’ of the peak of Everest emblazoned In a glow of deep orange. It’s one of the many highlights of the Everest Base Camp trek, and one I’d been looking forward to. It also offers the chance to reach the highest altitude of the entire trek at 5,644m.
However, the previous evening when we were back in our Tea House in Gorak Shep, we learnt that the weather would be pretty grim with rain forecast. This meant even If we did climb up Kala Patthar there wouldn’t be any views of Everest. So all but one or two adventurous souls declined. None of them actually made it to the peak in the end, as temperatures had dropped to below -10 degrees.
For those more fortunate to make the ascent, this is what you can expect to see (photo courtesy of my friend Karen who, along with Doug and Janet, have since gone back to do EBC all over again!).
On Day 12 this would see our 2 Everest Base Camp groups break off. The Classic EBC Group would begin their descent back towards Namche Bazaar, as Is the traditional trek. Our group would be heading to Cho La followed by Gokyo Lakes. We still had plenty of hard work yet to be done!
After breakfast, our entire EBC group, expedition leaders, medics, Sherpas and Porters, stood outside our Tea House to get a final group shot before saying our goodbyes.
One member of our team, Mike, had also reached his limit, and had decided to go back with the others. I was sad about this, as I’ve known Mike for a long time, having first met in that dimly lit upstairs room in the London Pub listening to the Everest Base Camp presentation. He said he’d be waiting for us in Kathmandu when we finally get there in a week’s time.
Mike and I
On the plus side, our path would be on a descent down to 4,800m. Although still at a fairly high altitude, It would give us some slight relief.
So we headed off, and onto the Cho La Pass. Our destination, Dzong La.
To be honest, I found this a real slog of a day! It was cold and raining most of the day, and I guess the fatigue from yesterday’s exertions and celebrations from reaching Everest Base Camp had taken a hold.
I found myself towards the back of our group for much of the day. The paths were muddy and slippery, and needed much more care and attention. Without going into graphic detail…I also embarrassingly had to do what bears do in the woods! It’s just one of those things you might need to prepare yourself for! Anyway, moving swiftly on…
Needless to say I didn’t take any more photos during our walk until we reached our Tea House in Dzong La much later that afternoon.
The Tea House was really small, with a tiny common room. Everyone tried their best to huddle close to the Yak dung heater and dry off!
I don’t remember much about that night, as the only thing on all our minds was tomorrow. We had a huge day ahead of us! At this point, none of knew just how HUGE tomorrow would end up being!
Day 13: Cho La (5,370m)…and the longest day!
Let me start by telling you what I wrote In my diary at the end of Day 13 whilst finally sitting in the common room of our Tea House…
“Sitting here now, whilst I’m reflecting on everything that happened today, It’s incredibly hard to know exactly where to begin…today was by far the toughest test both myself and the whole group have ever had to endure, both physically and mentally! So I’ll try my best to describe everything that happened, on what was the Longest Day”.
So we all knew that today would be an extremely long trekking day, with the plan to leave Dzong La 4,730m to make our way along the glacier and to the summit of Cho La 5,370m. Then descending on the other side of the mountain, traversing the Cho La Pass until we reached Dragnak for Lunch. After that the plan was to continue along the Nzogomba Glacier until we would reach Gokyo Lakes.
That was the plan anyway!
That was before we woke up at 5am to this…
The whole landscape had transformed overnight! Ok, so It did look beautiful, and we were all a bit like kids playing In the snow before we left. But at this point none of really realised just how much harder our day was going to become!
It was still icy cold and snowing when we set off at 6am. The first hour or so were slow going, as we made our way across the snowy tracks. Me being me, paying too much attention to my camera rather than looking where I was going, took a tumble, to the obvious amusement of the others! Lesson learned - for now anyway.
The relatively cold and slow pace continued for another hour or so, taking the odd rest here and there.
But we hadn’t even started our Cho La ascent yet.
As we eventually began the climb up Cho La, the group started to spread as some drifted behind, struggling with fatigue and the cold. It was extremely tough going, with the combined effects of the cold, snow and ice, and higher altitude, all taking a hold now.
In my mind I kept thinking - just keep going. Push yourself. I wanted to get this climb over and done with. I found myself at the front of the group for a change.
I came across some wire ropes that were fixed into the side of the mountain. The path became extremely steep, and I was literally pulling myself up higher and higher using the ropes. It was lung busting work!
For almost 2 hours we climbed. Looking over my shoulder I could see the group was really quite spread now. I carried on, alone except one of the others for company.
Finally with one huge effort to get past the remaining wire ropes, I made it!
On 5th October 2022 10am local time, I reached the Summit of Cho La (5,370m).
Wow! That was unreal! It felt amazing to reach the highest point of our EBC trek, but I felt drained. There were just 3 of us at this point on the summit. So we took off our rucksacks, ate some semi-frozen chocolate, and waited for the rest of the group.
For almost an hour we waited at the summit, whilst our body temperatures began to drop rapidly. My word it was cold! I was pleased I had my hand warmers with me at that point!
Eventually everyone made it! They naturally also needed some time to rest and recover, before we would make our way down the other side of the mountain, and onto the Cho La Pass. It was now past 11am, we’d been going for 5 hours, but there was still a very long way to go yet!
Until this point, none of us had walked over to where we would begin our descent. As we made our way to the other side of the mountain we were all struck with dread and fear - It looked incredibly steep and extremely icy! How on earth do we go down that!?
As you can see from the photo above - backwards! that was really the only option to traverse safely (ish). This by a country mile was the hardest test I’d ever experienced! It took forever to work our way, carefully stepping backwards, onto surfaces we had no idea if they’d be stable or not, whilst threading our hands through the wire ropes. It was painstaking work, and took a couple of hours to finally reach the bottom. I had never felt so relieved, but our journey was still far from over! I was now in a leading group of 5 or 6 of us, with the rest we didn’t know exactly how far back they were.
We had miles of never-ending, undulating snowy filled hills and tracks yet to complete. At this point, we hadn’t eaten since breakfast, and a high level of fatigue had set in. The other thing on our minds was - how on earth are we going to make it to Gokyo Lakes? And our Sherpa Guide Jangbu had inexplicably gone way ahead of us, seemingly In a hurry. Why had he done that? We were alone.
Both questions were answered, as our Expedition Leader, Joe appeared and told us we would be heading for Thangnak, and would stay there the night, assuming Janghbu could arrange accomodation for us.
Joe retraced his way back to pick up with the others in the group, whilst myself and our small troupe of 5 carried on alone. There were tears at some points from one or two as we were now extremely tired. The whiteness of the snow was everywhere, and we were just going on Instinct at this point.
Eventually, In the distance we could make out a small village way below In a valley. Yay! It was a joyous moment, as we knew then that the end was in sight. Almost. Although snow turned to some spots of green, and there were streams flowing down the hillside, It was slow going, for me anyway as my knees were crying from the pressure.
Approximately 10 hours after we first left Dzong La, we arrived in Thangnak…shattered!
I don’t remember much about the rest of that evening. The only thing I do remember Is that I slept better that night than any other night on my entire EBC trip!
Day 14: Nzogomba Glacier to Gokyo Lakes
Thankfully we were treated to a little extra sleep that night. So instead of the usual 5.30am rush, we slept in a little, but were still out and ready to leave by 8am.
Today’s trek, which should have been completed yesterday, thankfully would be a relatively short one In comparison. Our route taking us across the Nzogomba Glacier to Gokyo Lakes.
Gokyo Is one of the main highlights, which we had all been looking forward to. I’d seen plenty of photos which are just spellbindingly beautiful.
We set off however in our waterproof gear in gloomy looking weather. The mood unsurprisingly was a rather tired one, a combination of yesterday’s adventures with our whole trip now catching up with us.
I’m not sure what we were expecting, but the terrain of the Glacier was extremely tough to navigate, with never-ending undulating paths strewn with boulders of all shapes and sizes.
Karen is someone who I greatly admire. I’ve known her for a few years now, and regulars on the Action Challenge circuit would recognise her for her brightly coloured tutus she would sometimes wear. A cancer survivor, she chose a moment to stop and take out a few photographs of some friends who had sadly passed away from the disease and tied them around a small stupa. It was a highly emotional moment for her, and which we all felt.
Trudging on slowly, we eventually came to what looked like a mammoth and very steep looking climb ahead of us. It was like a slap in the face, but we were told that once at the top we’d see Gokyo Lakes ahead of us. So with that in the forefront of our minds we began the slow climb.
Once at the top, and with my heart beating fast, we saw what we had all had been so excited to see firsthand - Gokyo Lakes!
I mean…just look at it! Although we didn’t have the exceptional views you’d get on a clear day, the colours, made the lake even more beautiful encircled by the snow-capped mountains.
Tears of happiness broke out. I can’t explain exactly why, except to say that when you’ve been through so much together, shared all your pains and triumphs, and you all experience something incredible at exactly the same time, the emotions just come flooding out.
I think we were also feeling relieved being here, as we would have the option of a full rest day tomorrow! You might be able to guess that from the photo below!
We literally flew down the slopes towards Gokyo. When we arrived at our Tea House and home for the next 2 days, we were led into a vast open common room, which had a full glass wall that overlooked the Lake. It was stunning.
After lunch, the rest of the afternoon was ours to do what we liked. Most of us headed straight for the infamous German Bakery for, you guessed it, hot chocolate and cake!! There we sat, chatted and laughed, as we just reflected on our journey.
Every evening, Joe, our amazing Expedition Leader, would inform us of our plans for the following day, what to wear, and what to expect etc. For tomorrow however, he presented us with 3 options;
The Long Option - to climb Gokyo Ri (5,357m). An obvious temptation to climb this mountain. In clear skies this would offer us the most exceptional ‘money-shot’ views over the Lake and to some of the biggest peaks in the Himalayas. Something I had been dreaming about! However, knowing the forecast, and mixed with the thoughts of another full day’s tough mountain ascent and descent, everyone declined the long option.
The Medium Option: To do a shorter hike, around 3 hours or so, so we could visit a couple more of the Lakes in Gokyo. The added bonus being we would then have the afternoon free again to relax - and eat more cake, obviously!
The ‘Do nothing Option: Basically take advantage of a full day’s rest. I must admit that sounded appealing!
It was a unanimous decision - Option 2: The Medium Option. We all wanted to make the most of our time here in Gokyo. The likelihood of any of us coming back here was very small. So we all wanted to explore and take in as much as possible.
Day 15: Gokyo Lakes (cont.)
So after a great night’s rest, and an extra hour’s sleep than usual, we set off (on our rest day) for a shortish hike through Gokyo, ascending slightly once more to around 4,900m.
We were hoping that the weather would clear a bit, just so we could get a glimpse of the mountain ranges that were hiding currently from our view.
Despite the relatively easy going fields and tracks, It was noticeable we were all finding It a bit tougher this morning. You can sometimes forget that you’re trekking at high altitude still, until your body reminds you quick enough. There was a lot more coughing going on now from some of the team.
We kept going slowly uphill, until we reached our destination. We all took off our rucksacks, and took in our surroundings. Despite the low hanging clouds, from here 2 of the other Lakes were now visible, and occasionally one or two giant Himalayan Peaks would peak through the clouds.
So we sat for a while to take it in and have a rest before making our way back down again.
Heading back down, the timing couldn’t have been better. It started to snow, and by the time we reached our Tea House, quite heavily.
To be honest, I was delighted to spend the rest of the afternoon in the common rooms, whilst a few others went back to the bakery for some more cake!
It also gave me some time to write in my diary, and make a call back home to Marissa. In my mind I was now ready to come home. I’d done everything I’d set out to do, and was now looking forward to heading back to Namche Bazaar. that of course required a great deal of trekking, with rapid descents. But the thought of lower altitude and a hot shower was very appealing!
Due to the extra day we had taken to reach Gokyo, our route back to Namche would need to change from our original agenda. the previous route would have taken us via a steep ascent up the Renjo La, before descending into the Thame Valley and onto Lungden. Then we’d be heading along the Bhote Koshi River and down into Thame Itself, leaving a short 4 hour hike the next day into Namche Bazaar.
So a new route was formed to get us to Namche Bazaar In 2 days instead of 3!
I contemplated this whilst eating what was probably the best Sherpa Stew in the World…probably!
Day 16: Descent to Dole…and perhaps the worst Tea House in the Himalayas?
It was time to say goodbye to Gokyo Lakes.
In the morning, we headed out and down to Thonak Lake, the largest of the lakes in Gokyo, which had been our view over the past couple of days. Although we’d only just left, we stopped for a short while by the lake to take it in for one last time.
It was a beautiful, sunny morning, and as we continued walking, layers were stripped off, making way for just t-shirts. That felt great to bask in the warmth of the sun.
En route we passed a couple far smaller but equally stunning lakes, which had incredible backdrops of the mountains.
Eventually we came to a small bridge, where we all posed for a group shot - one which I cherish.
The walk today was much easier on our legs than we’d been accustomed to, with gentle tracks that wound their way high above a valley to our left. We were all in great spirits, as we told jokes, and laughed our way along this most beautiful, scenic path. We had been walking for a couple of hours when below us we could see a small village called Machermo, where we would stop for lunch.
We just had to go down steeply into the valley and climb back up the other side first!
After a fairly lengthy break we headed off again. The morning’s sun had gone, and was replaced by enveloping cloud, which dropped the temperature right down. The threat of rain made us all put on our waterproofs once again.
Although this section was meant to take us 3 hours, we had all seemed to have stepped up our pace, so we reached Dole in 2 hours. A chance to take off our wet clothes and warm ourselves up.
However, our lodgings in Dole were far more basic than anything we’d experienced during our trip, even more so than the notorious Gorak Shep!
The common room was tiny. When we arrived the Yak dung heater wasn’t on, so no warmth on offer either until this evening.
We were led down a dark prison like corridor which led to our rooms. When I saw my room, whom I was sharing with Ian, and had been for the past week, It didn’t get much better. Just 2 beds, literally nothing else, and If I could stretch out both my arms, I could probably touch the walls on either side. It was freezing in there too.
What I really wanted was a wash. I searched but couldn’t find a shower, and not even a sink! So I had to resort in despair to another wet wiping! So after getting changed, we headed into the common room to sit It out.
I literally have no photos of this place needless to say!
the rest of the afternoon was pretty miserable. Everyone was cold, tired and hungry! I tried writing In my diary, but just couldn’t muster the energy. So I purchased an over-expensive tube of Pringles and spent the afternoon devouring them over a hot Masala Chai.
Huw, bless him, lightened our moods by hosting yet another quiz evening. That made us all feel a lot better at least! the Yak heater was also now on, and our wet clothes were perched nearby In the hope they would dry out.
Although It was a desperately cold night back In our bedroom, we knew that this time tomorrow we’d be back In Namche Bazaar. We were all pretty excited at the thought of a hot shower, nice large bedrooms, and most importantly…a chance to go to the famous Irish Pub…labelled as being the Highest Pub In the World! I didn’t care…I just wanted a nice cold pint of beer!
Day 17: Namche Bazaar…and the Irish Pub!
After a long and cold night, even In my sleeping bag, It was time to leave Dole….Hooray!
I was so happy to leave, that this was the only photo I took outside our Tea House in Dole.
Sherpa Janghbu, with his familiar cry of ‘Jam-Jam’ paved the way for us to set off. I fell In Line directly behind him, with a steady procession of our group following.
Our path, although narrow in places, ran alongside some steep mountain slopes, and It was a very gentle walk. You could also see how the landscape was changing once again, having left the higher altitudes with the giant Himalayan mountains, now being replaced by lush green forests and waterfalls running down the hillside. It was breathtaking. I mean, not literally, as we now had much more oxygen to take on board!
There was still much more uphill ascents to make, followed by descents before we arrived pretty hot and tired at a familiar place we’d stopped for lunch at a couple of weeks ago.
It was great to stop and rest, and we took advantage of it, by eating loads, and even some hot apple pie and custard was brought out!
We only had a couple more hours of trekking to do before we’d reach Namche Bazaar, as we set off again after lunch. The sun had gone again, and It became cooler. Although after a while of walking, and we were now walking quite fast as we were all excited, our bodies started to heat up again.
Then all of a sudden, the familiar sight of Namche appeared, doused in low hanging clouds, but still a beautiful sight! It felt great to walk down those famous cobbled stone streets, past the market stalls and shops and to our hotel we’d stayed at previously.
First things first…a hot shower! both Ian and I were like excited children being given a special treat! It was amazing to feel the sensation of hot water pouring over my no doubt dirty and smelly body! I felt Human again.
Some of us made a plan to meet up in the Irish Pub later, whilst we went our ways to buy some last minute souvenirs you can only buy In Namche. I bought an Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lakes T-Shirt, and headband, and anything else I could find that we’d been there and done that! I also helped Emma to locate where I had previously purchased a Yak bell, Tibetan prayer flags, and a Yak blanket for Marissa.
The Yak bell and prayer flags now hang proudly In my back garden!
That done, we all met In the Irish Pub. Wow we could really feel the effects of having a couple of ‘well deserved’ pints!
We carried on drinking, and stopped by another Irish Pub across the street. We stayed for a while, having another drink, playing some pool, and eating popcorn, whilst the Doors were playing over the speakers. It was perfect, and just like any night out with your mates!
Dinner was back at our hotel, and It was a fairly early night for all. We had one final (or so we thought…..more on that to come) long day of trekking to do In the Himalayas, all the way back to Lukla.
Day 18: Namche Bazaar to Lukla
After a lovely hot breakfast, It was time to say goodbye to Namche Bazaar for the final time. I was particularly sad to leave this place, knowing I’d most likely see It again. So I tried my best to take In as much as I could as we walked steadily and slowly down through the cobbled streets.
It was a cold and rainy day, and as we began to head down the mountainside shortly after leaving Namche, It was really muddy and slippery underfoot. On and on we went downhill, and the effect of this on my knees was now excruciating. But you just have to keep going!
Eventually we arrived back at The Hilary Suspension Bridge. Another chance to walk across this amazing structure, that’s really not to everyone’s liking, except me perhaps! I love the adrenalin rush! This time however, It was a completely different experience, as It was raining, and there wind was blowing, making It quite tricky to keep your step.
The trek continued, for what seemed like hours, and It was still morning. We all knew we still had a long way to go. But eventually we arrived at the familiar gateway In and out of Sagamartha (Everest) National Park.
I took the opportunity to have a photo with my Sherpa friend Janghbu. He had been with myself since the very beginning, after we, the famous helicopter 5, had landed In Surke over 2 weeks ago now.
We carried on, as I turned towards the gates for the last time, and I said Thank You Sagamartha!
It was still a long hike, with more and more steps, until we reached our lunch stop In Pakhding. After lunch, Janghbu had a lovely treat for us. We would make a visit at his home, where we had stopped by briefly on our way up.
This time we were Invited in for some food, made by his wife. A few of us gratefully accepted, and I felt honoured to step Into their home, and sharing food and drink with Janghbu and his family. We had some homemade Nepali bread with honey, and a cup of hot mango tea! I will never forget that experience.
We said our goodbyes to Janghbu’s family and headed back out on our last stretch to Lukla. There was still a fair way to go from here and I wasn’t looking forward to all the steps again!
It went on for some time, but eventually we came to our final climb up a long flight of stairs, and to the entrance to Lukla. As we stepped through those gates, realising this was the end (or so we thought at that moment) of our expedition, everyone broke into whoops of joy, and there were many tears of relief it was over as well.
We made our way through the bustling streets of Lukla. It was much busier than I had thought, with many shops, bars and restaurants. We had missed seeing this on our way to the Himalayas.
Our hotel was situated right next to the small airport, or airstrip really. The infamous Lukla runway! Although, the low clouds looked ominous for our planned flight out of there tomorrow morning! I was praying they would clear, as It was one of the highlights I’d been looking forward to experiencing.
Tonight however, would be a celebration, with lots of food and drink on offer! It was also our chance to properly thank our amazing team of Sherpa guides and Porters for all their hard work supporting us. We had raised a collection, all chipping In around $100 p/p, which gets distributed accordingly. Some of us, me included, made a speech to thank them personally.
They then surprised us all by presenting a cake! We all love a good cake!
After dinner, Joe as usual gave us all a briefing of what to expect tomorrow. The weather forecast wasn’t looking great. But we were booked on the first flight out. So If there were any delays, we’d just sit It out and wait for an opening. So we all went to bed, and set our alarms for 4.30am!
Day 19: To Kathmandu…but how?
Ouch! 4.30am! After an uncomfortable night’s rest In a lumpy bed, Ian and I got up and went to the common room in the hotel along with everyone else.
The previous night before we went to sleep, everyone had packed up their hiking gear, In preparation for the Lukla flight. It felt good to be wearing normal clothes, even If they were a bit smelly!
No-one at this stage could really tell what the weather was up to yet, until dawn began to break, and at once It became apparent that the familiar low clouds and mist was covering Lukla like a damp grey blanket. It didn’t bode well, and the mood In the group was an anxious one. Joe suggested we all get some more sleep, If we could, and If there was any change he’d let us know. In the meantime Joe and Chhirring would devise a contingency plan.
Hours passed, whilst most of us still remained in the common room. Eventually around 9.30am Joe confirmed what we had been dreading! There would be no flights out of Lukla today!
Plan B: Joe told us our best hope was to hike down to Surke to try and get helicopters from there. This time not to Kathmandu, but to Manthali, and from there a 5 hour bus ride (If we were lucky) to Kathmandu.
Which meant, getting out our smelly hiking clothes once more, and going on another trek! Our EBC adventure wasn’t over - we were back on the trail!
The difference this time is that we were in a hurry! We were given only 15 minutes to change and meet up outside. It was expected to take around 2 hours of fast hiking for us to reach Surke.
This time we’d be led by Passan, a highly experienced Sherpa, who had already summitted Everest twice this year! We walked around the far side of Lukla airstrip, as our route would take us quickly downhill from there.
Passan then got us going, and he was like a man on a mission. The pace was ridiculous. I don’t think we appreciated the urgency that was required for us to reach Surke and have time to organise 3 helicopters.
The terrain was incredibly steep, and It was a real struggle at times, as much of the ground was wet with mud. Sometimes It seemed Impossible to place feet safely without slipping. There were also areas where we had to drop ourselves backwards onto a path. Yet another challenge we were now experts In getting accustomed to.
But along with the muddy paths, once out In the open, the surrounding countryside looked stunning, with deep green forests and river running down the valley.
Eventually, after a couple of hours hiking, Surke appeared below us. The small hilltop village I had previously briefly visited with the Helicopter 5 gang over 2 weeks ago!
When we arrived In Surke, It was like carnage, with hundreds of other people, who like us were aiming to get a helicopter ride out of the Himalayas. Although Chhirring had connections, and was trying his best to get our group up the long queue, we realised we’d all be In for a long wait.
Helicopters came and went, taking many people off the mountain, whilst we sat In the only common room available biding our time. We sat and watched as the scene kept unfolding, still waiting for our turn.
At 2pm, our first helicopter arrived, and I was lucky enough to be In the first group to leave, along with Doug, Kat and Kanch. the others would remain and wait their turn. Our plan was to meet them In Manthali, fingers crossed!
Poor Doug couldn’t bear to watch as we flew out of the Himalayas!
So, as we took off, our Himalayan adventure was drawing to a close. I felt a mixture of emotions as we flew past the mountains, and down towards the lower green valleys and villages below. Happy to be going home, but also sad to leave the beauty of the Himalayas behind me.
It was a longer flight that took us to Manthali, around 45 minutes or so. We eventually landed, and the heat Immediately hit us from being so much lower In altitude than we’d been accustomed to. Time to get changed Into t-shirts, shorts and sliders (ooh that felt so good to get my boots off!).
After an hour or so, the next helicopter arrived, bringing with it Emma, Jordan, Janet, Ian and Daniel. It was great to see them make It safely here. But we also knew that Karen & Huw, along with Joe and Chhirring, were still In Surke waiting their turn.
With the afternoon now rapidly drawing to a close, there wasn’t much of a window for them to be able to fly out of Surke, as there wouldn’t be sufficient light. As time went on, Kanch got word that Indeed, they wouldn’t be able to fly today, and would have to stay the night somewhere close to Surke. We felt terrible for them. Would they be able to make It back to Kathmandu In time for their returning International flight back to the UK? We didn’t know at this point. But we had to go, and take our bus either way, without them, which was sad for all of us.
It would take Karen and Huw, Joe and Chirring an extra 2 days to make It back to Kathmandu In the end. We never saw them again whilst we were In Nepal.
Just when you think your adventure Is over, something else surprises you. The Bus ride from Manthali to Kathmandu!
I can only describe the ride as total madness! The road, If you can call it a road, was full of potholes that were the size of craters in some places. It meandered up and down and around sharp mountainside bends, and did so for hours. The road was extremely busy, with cars, motorbikes and trucks, all weaving In and around each other, taking little or no precaution as they overtook each other, even around blind turns! It was terrifying! For the first time In my life I felt car sick! I wasn’t alone!
It was a long and unpleasant experience, but thankfully after 5 hours or so, we eventually arrived back at our hotel In Kathmandu. I had never felt so relieved as when I stepped out of that bus.
Mike, remember him? My good friend who had left with the other group after reaching Everest Base Camp, was waiting for us as we got out of the bus. Big hugs all round. It was great to see him!
Likewise, I can’t tell you how good it felt to be In a lovely hotel, with a large comfy bed, have a long hot shower, and get changed into clean new clothes!
That evening, we all sat around the table having dinner together one last time, except for Karen and Huw, who were still stuck up the mountain In Surke! It was such a shame!
Kanch was given the honour of presenting us with our Everest Base Camp medals, and as he did so, he gave a personal story about each of us who he had gotten to know. It was a great way to round off our extraordinary adventures together.
Everest Base Camp Trek: Summary
The next morning we all departed Kathmandu and said farewell to Kathmandu, and the Himalayas.
19 amazing days, crossing 130+miles of the Himalayas, with many days spent above 5,000m altitude. We had views that take your breath away, adventures that tested us to the core, and met people who will forever stay in our hearts and souls.
Our Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lakes journey was complete!
Don’t just think about about Everest Base Camp - Do it!
Now that you’ve read everything there possibly Is to know about Everest Base Camp, and heard first hand what It’s really like…It’s now over to you!
Amongst the trials and tribulations, pain and tests of endurance you’ll experience along the way, reaching Everest Base Camp will become one of your greatest achievements of your life, and change you forever!
Not many people can say they stood over halfway towards the roof of the world, let alone experience life In the Himalayas! Even if you don’t quite make it all the way to Everest Base Camp, you will still have trekked through one of the most beautiful places on the planet. So go for it!
Thanks for reading my Guides to Everest Base Camp. I can’t wait to hear about your own adventures. Please do let me know If this has inspired you to take the plunge, or Indeed If you’ve got a story to share about your own Everest adventure!
Namaste
Marc
If you enjoyed my guides please feel free to buy me a coffee!