There's something special about hiking in the Scottish Highlands. The mountains seem to stretch endlessly into the distance, the landscapes feel wonderfully remote, and even in the height of summer, the weather can remind you who's really in charge.
On 9 August 2018, I set off alone to climb Ben Macdui, standing at 1,309 metres and the second-highest mountain in Britain, surpassed only by Ben Nevis.
Starting from the Cairn Gorm Mountain car park, my route would take me approximately 10 miles (16km) across the spectacular Cairngorm landscape, reaching the summit in around two and a half hours.
What began as a beautiful, sunny August morning would turn into a memorable encounter with some distinctly Highland weather.
Eight years later, I can still remember the force of the wind as I approached the summit, the exposed rocky terrain and the welcome shelter of a low stone wall.
It wasn't my longest or most technically challenging hike, but it was certainly one worth remembering.
Back to the Cairngorms
We were staying at the Coylumbridge Hotel in Inverdruie, just outside Aviemore. A slightly dated but lovely family hotel, and somewhere that held particularly fond memories for me.
I'd stayed there years earlier with Jack and Abbie when they were much younger, so returning brought back memories of those earlier family holidays in the Highlands.
Surrounded by the magnificent pine forests of the Cairngorms, it was a wonderful base for exploring this beautiful part of Scotland.
On the morning of 9 August, I headed out alone towards Cairn Gorm Mountain.
The drive from Coylumbridge is a lovely one, following the road as it winds upwards through the pine forests. Gradually, the trees begin to thin, the landscape opens out, and the mountains rise ahead.
Eventually, I reached the car park beneath Cairn Gorm, where my hike would begin.
Despite it being August, and a bright, clear morning, I immediately noticed how much cooler it was up here compared with down in the valley.
It was an early reminder that the weather in the Cairngorms can be very different from what you might experience just a few miles away.
Setting Off Towards Ben Macdui
Leaving the Cairn Gorm Mountain car park behind, I headed out along the mountain path towards Ben Macdui.
The first thing that struck me was the sheer scale of the landscape. The Cairngorms have a wonderful sense of openness, with vast mountain slopes, sweeping valleys and distant peaks stretching as far as the eye can see.
The path was relatively straightforward to follow, and with the morning sunshine illuminating the surrounding mountains, it was a fantastic place to be walking.
There was already a stiff breeze blowing across the exposed slopes, but nothing particularly concerning at this stage. The visibility was excellent, and I could enjoy the magnificent views across the Cairngorms as I gradually gained height.
Walking alone meant I could settle into my own rhythm, stopping occasionally to take photographs and appreciate the scenery.
As I climbed higher, the landscape became increasingly rugged. The gentler mountain paths gradually gave way to rockier ground, and the sense of remoteness grew with every step.
There were no trees or sheltered valleys up here. Just an enormous expanse of open mountain terrain.
And as I continued towards Ben Macdui, I began to notice a change in the weather.
The breeze was strengthening, the temperature seemed to be dropping, and the clear blue skies of the morning were beginning to disappear.
The Cairngorms were about to show me a very different side of their character.
When the Weather Took Over
One of the things I remember most clearly about this hike is how dramatically the conditions changed as I climbed higher.
What had started as a beautiful August morning was gradually becoming something altogether different.
The breeze strengthened into a powerful wind, the sky began to darken, and the warmth of the morning quickly disappeared.
It was still summer, but it certainly didn't feel like it.
The higher I climbed, the more exposed the landscape became. There was very little natural shelter, and the wind swept across the open Cairngorm plateau with considerable force.
I pulled up my hood and continued towards the summit.
The final half-hour was particularly memorable.
The relatively straightforward mountain path gave way to a landscape of boulders, loose stones and scree. Progress required more concentration, picking my way carefully across the uneven ground while the wind continued to strengthen.
There was nothing particularly technical about the route, but the combination of rocky terrain and powerful winds made it feel considerably more demanding.
It was a reminder that a mountain doesn't need difficult scrambling or sheer cliffs to present a challenge.
Sometimes the weather provides all the difficulty you need.
Reaching the Summit of Ben Macdui
After approximately two and a half hours of walking, I finally reached the summit of Ben Macdui.
At 1,309 metres, I was standing on the second-highest mountain in Britain.
It was a satisfying moment, particularly given how much the conditions had deteriorated during the ascent.
The wind was fierce, the skies were threatening, and the summit felt incredibly exposed.
I managed to take a few photographs, but it wasn't the sort of place where I particularly wanted to stand around for long.
Fortunately, there was a low stone shelter near the summit, where a few other walkers had gathered to escape the worst of the weather.
I joined them, found a sheltered spot and enjoyed a few snacks while preparing myself for the descent.
There was something rather comforting about sharing that small patch of shelter with other hikers, all of us having made our way up the mountain independently.
I didn't linger too long.
The weather wasn't improving, and with the return journey still ahead of me, it seemed sensible to get moving again.
But reaching the summit had been a wonderful achievement, and despite the conditions, I was thoroughly enjoying the experience.
The Descent: Back Towards the Sunshine
For the return journey, I retraced my steps towards the Cairn Gorm Mountain car park.
And rather wonderfully, the weather began to improve.
As I descended from the exposed summit and made my way back across the plateau, the wind gradually eased and the dark clouds began to break apart.
The landscape seemed to change character once again.
What had felt bleak and windswept higher up became increasingly colourful as patches of sunshine returned to the mountains.
It was lovely to get lower, feel the temperature begin to rise and enjoy the scenery without constantly battling the wind.
I stopped occasionally to take photographs, including one beside a small mountain stream where the water tumbled between the rocks alongside the stone-paved path.
Looking back through my photographs eight years later, I discovered that this particular picture was taken at around midday.
I believe I had another half-hour or so before reaching the car park.
All told, the hike took approximately five hours, including stops and time spent at the summit.
Not a particularly long day by mountain-walking standards, but certainly a memorable one.
And there was something especially satisfying about looking back towards the mountains, knowing that just a couple of hours earlier I'd been standing high above them in conditions that felt very different from the sunshine returning to the lower slopes.
How Difficult Is Ben Macdui?
Looking back on my experience, I wouldn't describe the route I followed up Ben Macdui as especially technical.
Starting from the Cairn Gorm Mountain car park gives walkers a relatively high starting point, reducing the amount of climbing compared with routes beginning much lower in the valley.
For much of the hike, the terrain was manageable, with established mountain paths and wonderful views across the Cairngorms.
However, the final approach to the summit was considerably rockier, with boulders, loose stones and uneven ground requiring more careful footing.
The biggest challenge for me wasn't the terrain.
It was the weather.
The powerful winds and rapidly changing conditions were a reminder that Ben Macdui is a serious mountain, despite the relative accessibility of the route from Cairn Gorm.
The broad, exposed plateau can be particularly challenging in poor visibility, and navigation becomes much more demanding when cloud or mist obscures the surrounding landscape.
Although I enjoyed good visibility for much of my hike, I certainly wouldn't underestimate the mountain.
Anyone considering climbing Ben Macdui should be comfortable walking over rough mountain terrain, have appropriate navigation skills and be properly equipped for rapidly changing Highland weather.
Even in August.
Ben Macdui Walk: Route Information
For anyone considering a similar hike, here's an overview of my route and experience.
DetailInformationMountainBen MacduiHeight1,309 metresLocationCairngorms National Park, ScotlandStarting pointCairn Gorm Mountain car parkRoute typeOut and backApproximate distance10 miles (16km)My total walking timeApproximately 5 hours, including stopsTime to summitApproximately 2½ hoursDate walked9 August 2018TerrainMountain paths, open plateau, boulders and rocky groundMain challengesExposure, wind and rapidly changing weather
My distance and timings are approximate, reconstructed from my memories, photographs and a comparable route on AllTrails rather than a recorded GPS track.
Explore the route: Ben Macdui Summit on AllTrails
Please check the route carefully before setting out, as variations in the starting point and exact path can affect both the distance and the amount of ascent.
Tips for Hiking Ben Macdui
If you're planning to climb Ben Macdui, there are a few things I'd recommend based on my experience.
Check the mountain weather forecast. Conditions at the summit can be dramatically different from those in Aviemore. Don't assume that sunshine in the valley means good weather higher up.
Carry warm and waterproof clothing. Even in August, I experienced strong winds and noticeably lower temperatures. A good windproof and waterproof jacket is essential, along with suitable insulating layers.
Wear sturdy hiking boots. The final approach involves rocky and uneven terrain, where good grip and ankle stability can be particularly helpful.
Be prepared to navigate. The Cairngorm plateau is vast and exposed. In poor visibility, paths and landmarks can become difficult to identify. Carry a map and compass, know how to use them, and don't rely solely on your phone.
Allow plenty of time. Although I completed my hike in approximately five hours, everyone walks at a different pace. Build in extra time for rest stops, photographs and changing conditions.
Know when to turn back. The summit will always be there another day. If the weather deteriorates beyond your experience or comfort level, turning around is the sensible decision.
For current mountain conditions, it's worth checking the Mountain Weather Information Service and the Met Office mountain forecasts.
Final Thoughts: A Mountain Worth Remembering
Eight years later, I can still remember the wind sweeping across the Cairngorm plateau, the darkening skies as I approached the summit and the welcome shelter of that low stone wall.
I also remember the wonderful sense of freedom that came from being out in the mountains alone, surrounded by such extraordinary scenery.
Ben Macdui wasn't my longest hike, nor was it my most technically challenging.
But it was a fantastic reminder that the Scottish mountains deserve respect, whatever the season.
The contrast between the bright sunshine at the start, the fierce weather at the summit and the clearing skies on the descent made it a day that has stayed with me.
And that's one of the things I love most about hiking.
It's not always the distance, the difficulty or even the destination that makes a walk memorable.
Sometimes it's simply the experience of being there.
Happy Hiking!