Hastings to Fairlight Cove, East Sussex
Nestled along the picturesque coastline of East Sussex, England, lies the historical seaside town of Hastings, in the heart of 1066 Country. Join me as I embarked on a stunning, and surprisingly challenging circular trail from Hastings to Fairlight Cove.
Route Description
Starting and finishing in the historic Hastings Old Town, the route immediately climbs up steeply to East Hill Nature Reserve, where you are immediately rewarded with stunning panoramic views across Hastings and the coastline below. Along the way you pass through Hastings Country Park Nature Reserve, Fairlight Glen and Smugglers Caves, before reaching Fairlight Cove. On your return, you retrace your steps along the coastal trail back towards Hastings.
This hike typically takes between 3-3.5 hours, depending on your pace and how long you spend exploring the various points of interest along the way.
It’s a moderate level hike with some steep ascents and descents, so sturdy footwear is essential!
Distance: 12 km / 7 miles
Time: 3-3.5 hours depending on your pace
Difficulty: Moderate
Terrain: Hilly, with lots of ascents and descents, with multiple stairs. Can be extremely muddy in some sections
Elevation: 550m - packs a real punch in a relatively short distance
Option to extend: 13km circular: Fairlight to Cliffend via Pett and Guestling
Start and Finish
Hastings Old Town: I drove to Hastings, and parked in the Rock-a-Nore Car Park TN34 3DW, or What3Words lower.cape.voted
Use the RinGo App code 17162 (fees £5.30 for 3 hours, £7.90 for 5 hours)
Getting there
By Train: There are direct trains to Hastings from: Eastbourne (about 35 mins), Ashford, Tunbridge Wells (both 40 mins), Lewes (70 mins), Brighton (80 mins), London Charing Cross (100 mins) and London Victoria (2 hrs 10 mins). When you travel by train, a Bexhill and Hastings PlusBus ticket offers unlimited bus travel around the area.
By Bus: Stagecoach offer regular services from Eastbourne, Dover and most of Rother to Hastings. The buses are modern and comfortable, often accessible for pushchairs and wheelchairs and provide a reliable and regular service within Hastings and the surrounding towns and villages.
By Car: From London take the M25 take the A21 after the Dartford Crossing, and follow all the way to Hastings.
Where to stay
There are numerous places you can choose to stay during your visit to 1066 Country, some of which I will highlight below.
During my recent visit, I stayed at at the delightful Fern Cottage on the outskirts of Rye, in the quiet village of Iden.
I can’t recommend this cottage highly enough! The owners, Sarah and Simon have gone to great lengths to ensure your stay is both comfortable and enjoyable. There’s a lovely log burner too in the lounge, which was great after a couple of days spent hiking and exploring! Iden is also ideally placed, off the beaten track, but only a 5 minute drive into Rye.
Hotels and B&Bs
For a bit of creature comfort, The Laindons Guest House, 23 High Street, Old Town, Hastings, England, TN34 3EY
Adult only B&B with free breakfast, Anne’s House, 9 Linton Road, Hastings, England, TN34 1TN
An upscale B&B, The Ship Inn, The Strand, Rye, England, TN31 7DB
Comfortable hotel with full-service spa and fitness centre, Flackley Ash Country Ash Hotel, Peasmarsh, Rye, England, TN31 6YH
Welcome to 1066 Country
Battle of Hastings
The very ground upon which the Battle of Hastings unfolded lies within 1066 Country. In 1066, William, Duke of Normandy, led his army to Pevensey, Sussex, and ultimately defeated King Harold in the town of Battle. This pivotal event shaped the course of English history and is forever etched into the landscape.
Ancient Settlements
The region boasts ancient settlements, each with its own tale to tell.
Battle: Forever linked to the Battle of Hastings in 1066, Battle is home to the Battle Abbey, built on the very site where King Harold fell. The echoes of that pivotal moment in English history still resonate here.
Photo credited to About Britain
Bexhill: With its elegant seafront and the iconic De La Warr Pavilion, Bexhill exudes refined charm. Explore its Art Deco architecture and stroll along the promenade.
Bodiam: Nestled beside the enchanting Bodiam Castle, this village feels like a step back in time. The castle’s crenellated walls rise dramatically from the surrounding moat, creating a picture-perfect scene.
Camber: Vast sandy beaches and rolling dunes define Camber. Nearby, the ancient Rye Harbour adds to its allure.
Hastings: The very name evokes echoes of the past. Hastings played a pivotal role in the Norman Conquest. Explore the Old Town, visit the Fishermen’s Museum, and climb the East Hill Funicular Railway for panoramic views.
Herstmonceux: Known for its magnificent Herstmonceux Castle, this village is steeped in medieval history. The castle’s moat, gardens, and observatory make it a must-visit.
Photo credited to Gardens to Visit
Pevensey: The Pevensey Castle, originally a Roman fort, guards the coastline. Its sturdy walls have witnessed centuries of change, from Roman times to the Norman invasion.
Rye: A gem of cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and secret passages, Rye feels like stepping into a medieval tale. Climb the Ypres Tower for views across the marshes.
Winchelsea: Once a bustling port, Winchelsea now stands as a tranquil village. Explore its medieval church, ancient town gates, and the remnants of its maritime past.
Hastings to Fairlight Cove Circular Walk
6.15am: From my tranquil cottage retreat in the peaceful village of Iden, it was a lovely drive, as I passed through Winchelsea and Icklesham, before dropping down towards Hastings harbour around 30 mins later.
From the Rock-a-Nore car park, which is situated right at the seafront, I headed back along the road with the cliffs rising high on my right. Nestled in between some shops i spot the Tamarisk Steps, which i take, and follow the directions towards East Hill.
After a short but steady climb, i appear in a quiet road, Tackleway. About 100 yards further on my right is an entrance up some more steps signposted towards Barley Lane Caves. Despite the initial climb, it’s quite steady so far, and the path is easy underfoot.
As i reach higher ground, i turn to look behind me, and see Hastings below, wedged in between two high hills.
The early morning brings a light shower, and with it a strong breeze. I’m pleased i’ve got the protection of my Gore-Tex jacket! However, the forecast thankfully is telling me the wind will blow away the rain fairly soon, with some sunshine to follow. Fingers crossed i continue uphill towards High Wickham, where a sign in the corner points me in the direction of Hastings Country Park Nature Reserve.
A short stroll along the wet grass, and i’m soon back along the clifftops, where i’m rewarded with some splendid views of the coastline below.
Soon after i head carefully down a set of muddy stairs that are sandwiched in between some trees, before reappearing in the open once more. The sun is now showing signs of starting to break through.
As i walk a little further, the first real challenge of the morning is staring straight at me. I steep valley downhill followed by a staircase that seems to rise into the heavens.
I begin to make my way down the steps, which are buried underneath pools of deep, squelchy mud! It’s extremely slippery, so i tread carefully.
After safely making it to the bottom of the stairs, i cross over to the other side of the gully and begin the long climb back up the never-ending series of steps. This is beginning to remind me of my familiar stomping ground of Box Hill in Surrey! Despite the ascents and descents, i’m loving it…so far!
Having left Ecclesbourne Glen behind me, I’m now heading in the direction towards Fairlight Glen, which is 3km ahead of me. I’m still ascending, but the steps have now been replaced by sodden grass and more mud.
I’m thankful for a short respite of the mud when i hit a gentle track that runs beside Ecclesbourne Reservoir.
The respite doesn’t last long, as I’m back on yet another muddy path, my boots now bearing testament to this.
I enter into a wooded area, and the path is now firmer, and more pleasant to walk on. Perhaps the worst of the mud is now behind me?
Following the signpost, and then rounding a small turn, that question was answered by a firm “No”. An unavoidable muddy track lay ahead of me. Without warning, i slipped and fell into the squelchy mud! Thankfully no-one was around to witness my embarrassment, but my mud-stained clothes would give the game away!
After wiping away some of the mud from my hands, i took this photo as a reminder of the spot where i slipped.
Cursing myself as i continued on, 5 minutes later i was now in the heart of Hastings Country Park Nature Reserve, and thankfully, much easier ground to walk on. Crossing through a gate i entered a wide open field. Keeping to the left hand side, i followed the trail, with the sea visible to my right. This was more like it…and i soon forgot all about my unfortunate slip!.
Reaching the end of the field, i bear right at a gate, as i enter Fairlight Glen, and Glen Wood. It’s a pretty little section, as i thread my way on an easy track in between the trees.
The steps lead me uphill at first, then back down, as the trail bears left onto a narrow, track with fields to my right. I’m now in Warren Glen. It’s a beautiful vista that leads me to the top of the hill.
I’m getting close to Fairlight Cove now, and as i walk along the track through the tall shrubs, i reach the crest of the hill.
From here i walk down a path towards Lower Coastguard Lane, and turn left heading in the direction of the Fairlight Visitor Centre. Just by the car park i turn right by a signpost towards the Radar Station. Directly facing the sea, the view is stunning! To my left beyond the rolling countryside i can see Fairlight cove. I keep walking towards the cliffs through a sea of delightful clifftop ferns tinged with yellow heads.
As i approach the clifftops, standing safely back enough, i pause to take in the views, before i begin the next leg heading back towards Hastings. The multiple staircases and muddy trails have all been worth the effort!
But it’s time to continue on, as i head along the path keeping the sea to my left now. Heading first towards the Radar station, before the next series of steps (marker 22) that direct me towards Hastings.
At the foot of the stairs, i’m back on a countryside track, that’s thankfully dry now and easy going. More stairs lead up to a ridge on the south side of Hastings Nature Reserve, which in turn offers views out to sea.
I’m loving this part of the trail, as i continue to make my way along this stunning coastline.
Just as i round corner however, i’m confronted by a long stretch of track that looks more like a mud swamp. With no way to avoid it, i trudge through, being mindful to tread carefully so i don’t get a repetition of my earlier slip!
With only a few remaining kms to go, i’m through the muddy sections, and now back onto familiar ground as i approach the series of never-ending stairs at Ecclesbourne Glen.
From here, the path narrows in between a row of brightly coloured shrubs and trees before it opens up into the wide expanse of green fields on East Hill, that then leads onto Hastings.
At the end of the field, Hastings Old Town lies before me. I head down the steps, and back onto Tackleway, before making my way to my car, which is parked at the harbour wall.
Hastings to Fairlight Cove circular hike - complete!
In summary
Well that was a belter of a walk! One that packed a real punch!! Despite the muddy steps and paths here and there, oh and the odd slip (best keep that part to myself in future!), it was a hike that truly delivered.
From the historic old town of Hastings, with clifftop ascents offering amazing views out across the harbour and beyond, to traversing across the pretty, unspoilt East Sussex countryside, Hastings to Fairlight Cove - i salute you!
Thanks for reading
Happy Hiking!
Marc
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